DINING UPDATE http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/listings/restaurants/venue?vid=181318
A tasty Anchor in the Castro
Michael Bauer, Chronicle Restaurant Critic
Friday, October 28, 2005
Those who claim there's no good food in San Francisco's Castro district must have overlooked Anchor Oyster Bar, which isn't a difficult thing to do.
Although it's been around since 1977, it occupies a sliver of a storefront on Castro Street between 18th and 19th streets. Inside, the quarters are cramped -- even with only 25 seats, including eight stools at the counter.
The place exudes a comfortable, lived-in feeling, with stuffed fish on the walls, linoleum floors, chrome chairs, stainless steel tables set with galvanized buckets filled with oyster crackers, and a long white-marble-topped bar.
The straightforward menu offers many expected staples, such as a changing array of oysters, seafood cocktails, shellfish and crab cakes. A blackboard surrounded by fishing paraphernalia hangs over the bar and lists the daily specials, which include several main courses and seafood pasta.
The specials are surprisingly complicated. Coho salmon ($18.95) was crowded onto a plate accompanied by a mountain of wild rice studded with carrots, black grapes and walnuts, with a tuft of baby carrots, broccoli stalks and green beans splayed on the side. All the elements were fresh, but fewer competing flavors would have made them stand out even more.
The printed menu hasn't changed much in 20 years. It goes without saying that the oysters are good, and you can get a mixed platter with a dozen on the half shell, eight steamed clams and four chilled prawns ($29.95); however, I always head for the seafood salads. This is where Anchor really shines.
A generous mound of fresh-picked crab is arranged on greens studded with carrots, tomato and red cabbage ($20.95). Diners can choose any one of the house-made dressings -- Italian, creamy garlic or blue cheese. I prefer the Thousand Island, a dressing I probably wouldn't have anywhere else but Anchor because it goes so well with the crab and the mix of greens. The restaurant also offers a salad with shrimp ($16.95), prawns, which are larger ($19.95), or a combination of them all ($20.95).
Anchor also knows how to make crab cakes ($10.95). The crust on the two patties is just crisp enough to hold in the lightly seasoned meat. They don't need any more than the accompanying tartar sauce and squirt of lemon to make them sparkle.
Steamed mussels and clams ($15.95) luxuriate in a lemon butter broth filled with sprigs of fresh thyme. Diners can also choose between black mussels ($14.95), green-lipped mussels ($15.95) or a steamed shellfish combination ($19.95).
No desserts are offered, which simplifies the menu and keeps the tables turning.
Service is casual and competent. If you want to split the salad, it's no problem, and the waiter may even volunteer to bring you two different dressings on the side. If you order lemonade ($1.95), the server will come around with a pitcher for a refill.
While it's not a place to linger -- most people clock only about 30 minutes or less at the counter -- it feels like home. If you're looking for a place to dine around the magnificent Castro Theatre, Anchor should be at the top of the list.
-Anchor Oyster Bar
579 Castro St. (between 18th and 19th streets), San Francisco.
(415) 431-3990.
Open 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Friday;
noon-10 p.m. Saturday,
4-9:30 p.m. Sunday.
Beer and wine. No reservations. Credit cards accepted. Difficult street
parking.
E-mail Michael Bauer at mbauer@sfchronicle.com.
Overall TWO AND A HALF STARS
Food TWO AND A HALF STARS
Service TWO AND A HALF STARS
Atmosphere TWO STARS
Prices $$$
Noise Rating THREE BELLS
A Cozy Place for Oysters http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/1992/07/10/FD4154313990.DTL&type=food
Michael Bauer, Chronicle Food Editor
Friday, July 10, 1992
From the minute I walked into the tiny Anchor Oyster Bar, I knew I would love it. The room is dominated by a marble-topped counter surrounded by stainless steel tables, each set with an overflowing basket of oyster crackers. A picture window overlooks Castro Street and its constant parade of people.
Freshness is the key to Anchor Oyster Bar. From a closet-sized kitchen the cooks turn out wonderfully plump and garlic-laced mussels ($8.95) and huge, tender prawns ($15.95 with salad and vegetable), both dishes floating in a butter-laced broth that begs to be sopped up with sourdough bread.
For oysters, served with lemon and traditional red cocktail sauce, you pay about a $1 a piece. Don't miss the shrimp Louis ($8.95) or the chowder ($2.25) with loads of tender clams, potatoes and celery in a creamy broth.
In addition, each day there are about three seafood specials such as toasted cheese, shrimp and crab sandwich ($7.95) or a baked petrale sole ($8.95).
Anchor is a true oyster bar. While you can get excellent coffee, served in heavy, often chipped white mugs, don't expect dessert. You'll have to walk up the street to the cookie or ice cream store. And don't expect to linger; there's usually a crowd outside at peak hours, eyeing your seat.
ANCHOR OYSTER BAR
579 Castro Street, San Francisco
(415) 431-3990
Open 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Friday;
noon-10 p.m. Saturday;
4:30 9:30 p.m. Sunday.
Beer and wine. Credit cards accepted.
E-mail Michael Bauer at mbauer@sfchronicle.com.
Overall:: TWO AND A HALF STARS
Food: TWO AND A HALF STARS
Service: TWO STARS
Atmosphere: TWO STARS
Price :$$
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